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'Eat Well Guided
Tour of America' finds coast-to-coast
hunger
to reconnect through sustainable food...
The National
Tour will end at FARM AID on September 9th
in New York City
NEW YORK, August 23 /PRNewswire-USNewswire/
-- When Sustainable Table Founder and
Director Diane Hatz set off on her 38-day
Eat Well Guided Tour of America earlier this
month from California to New York
(chronicled live at:
http://www.sustainabletable.org/roadtrip),
she suspected she'd be meeting far more
interesting people than recent media
caricatures of America as a "fast- food"
nation have suggested.
"We knew, for instance,
about the research behind the Institute of
Food Technologists' recent report listing
'dining at home' and 'eating natural, fresh
and locally produced food' as among this
year's 'Top 10 Food Trends.'"
Nevertheless, Hatz
reports that she and her fellow travelers on
the bio- fueled bus have been surprised that
"nearly everyone we've met" seems to share
the deeper hunger that inspired the trip:
"for food that satisfies our palates and
helps sustain our environment, all while
helping us to re-connect with community."
Since 2003, Hatz has worked to help educate
consumers through her work with Sustainable
Table, a Manhattan-based nonprofit program
created to support alternatives to
industrialized agriculture.
The tour began on
August 2nd at an apt venue for a group
committed to the notion that nature produces
the best-tasting foods: a picnic in West
Hollywood's Kings Road Park.
Under the park's
beautifully landscaped old-growth trees,
Hatz met chefs like Amelia Saltsman whose
newly published "Santa Monica Farmers'
Market Cookbook" argues that good cooking is
not only about picking the right
ingredients, but about knowing how they are
produced.
The event featured
other local food celebrities like farmer and
independent filmmaker Lisa Brenneis ("Eat at
Bill's: Life at the Monterey Market") and
chef, caterer and best-selling cookbook
author Evan Kleiman, who served up ensalata
forte, zucchini frittata, beet and fennel
salad, and heirloom tomato and mozzarella
salad.
From here we left on a
four-hour drive north to The Vineyard
Restaurant in the Central Valley town of
Madera. Designated only by fading purple
letters on a modest sign, "the place can be
easy to miss," Hatz said, "but it's the best
in the valley."
The restaurant's owner,
Chris Mariscotti, is a leader of the "Slow
Food Movement" that has been gaining
popularity throughout the country far more
swiftly than its name might suggest.
Started in 1986 in
Italy by Carlo Petrini, the movement
emphasizes a return to regional traditions
and home cooking from local, sustainably
grown ingredients. And as Petrini sees it,
Americans are key to determining the
movement's fate.
"The challenge, the
game, truly begins in America," he told the
Associated Press earlier this year. "The
country which invented fast food can propose
slow food."
After events in
Berkeley and southern Oregon over the next
few days, "The Eat Well Guided Tour" stopped
at the Rogue Creamery in Central Point,
Oregon, which Petrini and Jeff Roberts,
director of Slow Food USA, recognized
earlier this year with an award for numerous
achievements, from pioneering the movement
to producing the legendary and coveted Rogue
River Blue Cheese, which is sold out until
2008.
There the group learned
that Rogue cheddars are created in a huge
vat and use about 10,000 lbs of milk to make
1,000 lbs of cheese, and tend to age
anywhere from 6 to 8 months. And that the
secret to good cheese-making is a keen sense
of smell and taste. Rather than rely on
chemistry sets, as the larger cheese
operations do, the artisans at Rogue rely on
taste, touch and smell, and tasters decide
when each batch of cheese is finished aging.
At Rogue, everything is done by hand, from
the stirring to the packing. The group got
to stick their noses into the 'cave' room,
where the aging happens. It doesn't look
much like a cave, but their hosts told them
it resembles the caves in European
creameries. One of the visitors remarked,
"If you've never smelled a cheese cave, you
should! It smelled rich and buttery and kind
of musky. It got us all hungry to taste some
cheese, which was what we did next and it
tasted 'smooth like brandy.'"
After venturing north
through Oregon, Washington and Idaho the
tour arrived in Missoula, Montana, on August
14, where Hatz met chef Eric Stenberg, a
chef who works with the "Farm to Restaurant
Collaborative," a local group which aims to
connect people back to the system that grows
our food -- the seed, the land, the farmer
or rancher and the routes that deliver it to
us.
Stenberg shared his
shopping methods with the group. Hatz writes
that, "He gave us each a sheet of paper with
a type of vegetable you may find in a
typical farmers market -- carrots, squash,
beets, potatoes, and a few others. For each,
he listed all the different types of
ingredients you can use to preserve the
flavor of the vegetable. His philosophy was
about keeping the integrity of the vegetable
as much as possible through cooking, since
local produce already has incredible tastes
to offer the palate."
On August 17, the tour
traveled through the Teton Valley that runs
from Idaho to Wyoming. There Hatz met Sue
Muncaster, who helped pioneer both "Farm to
Restaurant" and "Slow Food" programs in the
valley.
Muncaster said she
began learning about "the pleasures of the
table" from her aunt, "who loved to cook."
But "right now," as Muncaster sees it, "we
aren't doing too well ... Even the farmers
who have lived here in the Tetons for
generations can no longer afford to farm and
are selling out to developers. Meanwhile, in
what was once a self-sustaining community,
we can no longer buy local milk from the
cows we pass on the road and all our organic
produce comes from Los Angeles ... .If we
don't change the direction we are going, we
might just end up where we are headed."
Hatz emphasizes,
however, that although she has met many
activists like Muncaster on the trip, "our
tour is not really political. We do believe
that consumers have a right to know more
about where their food comes from, who grows
it and how, and we also believe in the power
of "voting with your fork." Small-scale
farmers and communities need local dollars
to survive, and in America, when money
talks, corporations listen."
For Hatz, one of the
most memorable stops of the tour was her
visit to Pie Ranch in Pescadero, California.
Pie has been a major theme throughout the
tour which, in fact, is subtitled 'Pie
Across America." "Pies are such a great
metaphor for sharing community through
local, wholesome food because their
ingredients tell stories about the people
who bake them and the communities who
created them."
"If you could see Pie
Ranch from the sky," Hatz said, "you'd know
how it got its name. It's wedge-shaped, just
like a slice of the good stuff." In fact,
Jared Lawson, who runs the ranch along with
Nancy Vail and Karen Heisler, told us that
the shape of the property was part of the
inspiration for its business model".
"To truly experience a
pie," Hatz said, "you need to first harvest
and bake it, as we did on Pie Ranch. We
walked out onto the farm, sycles in hand,
and harvested long stalks of golden wheat.
With the warm sun on the back of our necks,
we walked down rows of strawberries,
blackberries and raspberries, harvesting the
fruit for our own pies.
"Nothing quite compares
to standing in a field of berries and
popping a just picked strawberry into your
mouth. It's as if the warm juice of the
berry soaks up the sun and bursts summer
into your mouth. As you kneel on the ground,
you feel the richness of the soil, the smell
of moist earth mixing with the sweetness of
the strawberries all around you. Everything
you touch is warm, soft and vibrant with
life. The blackberries and raspberries hung
heavily from their vines, inviting us to
pick them. At the house, we learned how to
strip, winnow and mill the wheat by hand,
and before we knew it, we had 100% whole
grain wheat flour in front of us. Add to
that fresh berries, bursting with juice and
flavor, and you have pie. The closest one
can get to standing in a field harvesting
all the ingredients to a pie is to stand in
a kitchen and smell a homemade pie, made
with fresh, local, sustainable ingredients,
baking in an oven. Think of the smell of
home and family and goodness, wrap it up
with a healthy dose of sunshine and fresh
air, sprinkle it with a little friendship,
and you've got a pie baked on Pie Ranch."
"From here on," Hatz
said, speaking from Lawrence, Kansas, where
Simran Sethi, host of the Sundance Channel's
"The Green," joins the tour for a few days,
"pie-making will continue to be the
highlight of our tour," from the Iron Chef
Pie Contest with local chefs and celebrity
judges in Minneapolis on August 25 to the
pie judging, pie walk and pie storytelling
planned in Ann Arbor, Michigan on Sept. 1,
and finally, the pie buffet and bake off at
Gigi's Market in Red Hook, New York, on
Sept. 7 where representatives from FARM AID
will join us to delight in the taste of pies
and celebrate local, sustainable farmers.
RECIPE FOR SOLSTICE BLUEBERRY PIE, COURTESY OF:
The Solstice Cafe in Corvalis, Oregon
(Photo: http://www.newscom.com/cgi-bin/prnh/20070823/DCTH012 )
Ingredients for the Crust:
18 tablespoons organic butter (9 oz)
3 cups flour (pastry flour if available)
1 teaspoon salt
7 tablespoons ice water (or more, if necessary)
1 tablespoon cider vinegar
Special equipment: Food processor
Cut butter into 3/4
inch cubes and freeze 6 tablespoons.
Refrigerate the remaining butter. Process
the refrigerated butter for 20 seconds with
the flour and the salt. Add the frozen
butter and process the mixture until it
forms clumps the size of peas. Add water and
cider (add additional water one tablespoon
at a time if the dough is too dry). Turn out
on a lightly floured counter or board and
knead slightly. Chill at least 30 minutes
before rolling out.
To bake a single crust
pie shell:
On a lightly floured
surface, roll out the dough to about 1/8
inch thickness. Ease dough loosely into the
pie pan, and, with kitchen scissors or a
sharp knife, trim the edges of the dough to
leave about 1/2 inch overhanging the edge of
the pie pan. Fold the extra 1/2 inch of pie
dough under itself. Let the pie dough rest
for 15 minutes. Flute the edges of the pie.
Using a fork, prick the
pastry all over the bottom and up the sides
of the pie pan (this prevents the dough from
puffing during baking). To avoid large
bubbles during cooking, add a cup of dry
beans or rice to the pie shell, or use
pastry weights. Bake for 15 to 18 minutes at
425, or until crust is a light golden color.
Cool before filling.
(Makes dough for crust for 1 single crust 8- or 9-inch pie shell)
Ingredients for Filling:
5-6 cups fresh blueberries, rinsed and dried (preferably organic)
1/2 cups plus
2 tablespoons water, divided
2 tablespoons cornstarch
1/2 cup sugar
2 teaspoons lemon juice, freshly squeezed
Pinch of salt
Lemon zest (from one lemon) and whipped cream, for garnish (optional)
Measure 1 cup
blueberries, choosing the softest berries.
In a medium saucepan, simmer the berries on
medium heat with 1/2 cup of the water. In a
small bowl, whisk remaining 2 tablespoons
water with the cornstarch. When the water
and blueberries come to a boil, lower the
heat and continue to simmer until the
mixture begins to thicken. Add the lemon
juice, sugar, salt, and cornstarch mixture
and simmer until the mixture is translucent.
Remove from the heat and add remaining
blueberries, tossing to coat.
Spoon the blueberry
mixture into the pre-baked pie shell and
refrigerate until set (around 2 hours).
Optional: pipe whipped
cream around the edges and zest a lemon on
top just before serving.
Tips: When zesting
lemons or other citrus fruit, be sure not to
dig into the bitter white pith.
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